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Your young apple tree is a story waiting to unfold, with you as a guide nurturing its growth and helping it reveal its full potential. Pruning is just a step in this transformative journey, setting the stage for a fruitful “happily ever after”. Here are some helpful tips for mastering the art of pruning, ensuring your apple tree grows strong and bears the perfect fruit. Start Pruning at Planting  Why prune new trees? It's a perfectly reasonable question to ask, but there is a valid reason to start pruning at the time of planting.  When you welcome a young tree into your garden, careful and thoughtful trimming will prepare it for a lifetime of lush growth. While many gardeners, even experienced ones, will say that pruning newly planted trees compensates the root loss or helps the tree survive the planting, the latest research shows that is not quite true.    Pruning cannot compensate for root loss and doesn’t help the tree in overcoming the shock of transplantation. The more leaves you leave on the tree, the happier and healthier roots will be in their new home. As we already know, leaves turn sunlight into energy, and that energy fuels the root growth and helps it get over the shock of moving.  Then, why pruning when planting? Pruning at the time of planting is for structure only. It should be done to establish the best possible structure to help it grow strong and beautiful in the future.  How to Prune a Young Apple Tree? The first pruning should be done immediately after planting. The critical question of when to prune a new apple tree is, therefore, closely connected to its planting period. The best time to plant a new apple tree is from late November to early March, while the tree is still dormant. That’s also the time when you should do the first pruning. Young apple trees are sold in three main forms. Understanding these forms of young apple trees is crucial for effective pruning. These three main forms of a young apple tree available for sale are: Unfeathered Maiden Feathered Maiden Two-Year-Old Tree The main goal of pruning a young apple tree is to form a strong central leader or a trunk by removing branches that are growing upright and fighting for dominance with the leader or are too closely spaced. Also removing branches that are damaged or broken can prevent potential future issues. Unfeathered Maiden (A Single-Stem 1-Year-Old Apple Tree) An unfeathered maiden is a 1-year-old tree with a single stem or trunk and no side shoots. The main goal of pruning 1-year-old apple trees is to: Encourage them to branch out Make them stronger How to Do It: Cut the top of the stem just above the bud Ensure there are 3 or 4 healthy buds below Make the cut about: 75cm from the ground for standard and half-standard trees 60cm from the ground for a tree on a dwarfing M27 rootstock This approach encourages the tree to grow lateral branches. The healthy development of these branches is essential for a strong and productive structure. Be aware that you are not just cutting, but guiding your tree towards fulfilling its full potential. Feathered Maiden (1-Year-Old Apple Tree with Side Shoots) A feathered maiden is a 1-year-old apple tree with several side shoots on the main stem. The key goal of pruning feathered maiden is to: Select well-placed branches Create a balanced, open tree structure Shape the tree for future growth How to Do It:  Examine the tree’s structure Identify the central trunk, which is the main upward branch Remove any shoots that compete with it Choose 3-5 strong, well-spaced, outgrowing branches They should be evenly distributed around the trunk Ideally, angled 45 to 60 degrees from the trunk Cut the top of the main branch (trunk) just above the highest side shoot Shorten the branches you previously selected by half to two-thirds Cut them just above an outward-facing bud Remove any side shoots below them Remove damaged or broken branches By following these steps, your feathered maiden apple tree will be on its way to becoming strong and well-shaped, ready to grow and bear fruit for years to come. 2-Year-Old Apple Tree (Newly Planted or In Its Second Year) Pruning a Newly Planted 2-Year-Old Apple Tree (Pre-Trained by the Grower) If your newly bought apple tree is 2 years old, it is probably partly pre-trained. It has likely already started to form a basic structure, but it can still benefit from formative pruning. Pruning 2-year-old apple trees is similar to pruning feathered maiden trees. The only difference is that with a 2-year-old tree, the main stem or trunk is most probably cut back by the grower but the tree may have sprouted a replacement upright shoot. You need to cut it back just above the highest side shoot. Pruning the Second Year After Maiden (Two Years in Your Garden) Pruning your apple tree in its second year in your garden is very important for its robust, healthy growth and abundant fruit production. The goal is to: Develop a strong and well-structured framework of branches Make the tree capable of bearing the weight of the fruit Pruning should be done late in winter or early in spring, before the new growth emerges. Here is a simple guide on how to prune a young apple tree in winter. Hot to Do It: Examine the tree’s structure Remove competing branches to maintain a single, strong, central leader Choose 8 to 10 side shoots evenly spaced around the trunk To establish the permanent branching structure Remove the branches that are growing vertically, too close, crossing, or rubbing against each other Remove shoots that main branches do not need Shorten the branches by half to two-thirds Cut just above the outward-facing bud Remove suckers (growing from the base of the trunk) and water sprouts (upright shoots on branches) Remove diseased, dead, or damaged branches Keep the centre of the crown open Pruning in the second year is important for strengthening the structure that was established in the first year. Thoughtful shaping of the tree will be highly beneficial for its strength and fruit production. Pruning 3-Year-Old Apple Trees After 3 years, your apple tree is already well structured and pruning is a means of refining its shape and preparing it for fruit production. In this stage, the goal of pruning is to: Shape and refine the tree’s structure Improve air and light circulation throughout the canopy Crucial for the quality and quantity of harvest Encourage the growth of fruiting spurs How to Do It: Cut back the last growth by a quarter Cut the branches that are becoming disproportionately long Keep the side-shoots on the main branches These branches will develop fruiting spurts and bear fruit Remove them only if: They grow into the crown’s centre Become too crowded Rub against each other Remove suckers and water sprouts By the third year, pruning your apple tree is completing the setting of the stage for healthy and abundant fruit production. Pruning Apple Trees for Fruit Production The proper pruning of apple trees is essential for maximizing healthy fruit production. The goal of this kind of pruning is to: Remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches Thin canopy to improve airflow and light exposure Maintain a balance between vegetative growth and reproductive growth Prevent the tree from producing too many small, poor-quality fruit Pruning at this stage ensures that the apple tree is getting enough air and sun and preventing its energy from being spent on leaf growth instead of fruit production. It is important to know that apple trees produce fruit on spurs – short, stubby branches. They must not be overcrowded because they need a lot of sun and fresh air. How to Do It: Remove entire branches if the canopy gets too crowded to open it up Remove the branches that compete for nutrients and sunlight Shorten branches by cutting them back to a bud Make sure spurs are not overcrowded After pruning, water the tree and mulch to retain the soil moisture If you set the stage correctly and make sure every fruit gets its share of sun and fresh air, you can happily expect a bountiful and delicious harvest. Thorough care in the first few years will reward you with crisp, tasty apples, making every bit of your effort worthwhile. Pruning Young Apple Tree Aftercare After the pruning is done, there are some things to do to ensure good aftercare and prevent various problems. First of all, make sure the tree receives enough water and mulch it to keep the soil moist. Based on the soil test, fertilize the soil if needed. As for the wound care, it is better to let it heal naturally. Monitor to see any signs of pests or disease on time and react adequately. Protect the tree if it’s in a windy location or too much exposed to the sun. Support the tree with a stake if its structure is significantly altered, especially in windy locations. By following these steps, you will help your tree easily recover from pruning and prepare for successful growth and abundant yield. Be patient and gentle and your young apple tree will thrive and reward you with its beautiful blossoms and tasty fruit for years to come. FAQ What are the most common mistakes when pruning an apple tree? When it comes to pruning a young apple tree, here are some most common mistakes you should avoid: Not pruning every year Pruning without a plan Pruning too early in winter Over-pruning Not thinning out the canopy Should I take off the fruit of a young apple tree? Yes, all the fruit in the first growing year should be removed from the tree, as well as half of the fruit the next year. For the first 2 years, it is best to direct the tree’s energy into growing roots. After that, remove only damaged fruit or thin out if the crops get too heavy for the tree. Too much crop can end with too small fruit of a lower quality. Is my new apple tree dying? New trees often experience transplant shock and struggle to establish their roots. If it doesn’t have enough room for its roots or is not watered properly, it may show signs of dying. Here is how to tell if your newly planted apple tree needs help: Bend a branch If it breaks easily, the tree is dying or is already dead Gently scratch the bark with your fingernail If a layer beneath is moist and green, your tree is alive How do you save a young apple tree? If your newly planted apple tree is experiencing stress, you can try some of these things to help it: Make sure it gets enough water At least 15-20 litres of water per week Add a layer of mulch to keep the soil moist Keep it around 10 to 15 cm away from the trunk Check the pH and nutrient levels of the soil Apple trees prefer a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. Prune for structure to improve air circulation and enable more sunlight Remove all damaged, diseased, or dead branches Based on the soil test, apply fertilizer Don’t over-fertilize because the excessive growth can cause other problems

Fruit trees can be a lovely addition to your garden. Depending upon the variety you choose, they can be planted in the ground or grown happily in pots in your garden or on your patio. Our fruit trees have had an abundance of blossom this year and have looked stunning. Fruit is now starting to develop and the Victoria plums in particular look as though they will produce a bumper crop this year. Fruit trees are also popular because they add structure and interest to a garden, and you can reap the rewards of growing your own fruit! Fruit trees will encourage wildlife into your garden too. We have talked in a previous blog (Are your fruit trees being sabotaged by insects?) about how to control the insect population. Insect life is so important for our wild birds and we would never discourage this. All of our nest boxes have had young in them this year and it has been so good to see and should be actively encouraged. We have so enjoyed watching the young fledge. We have an excellent selection of fruit trees in stock this year. We have also been able to source some very old traditional varieties including Joe’s Sheep’s Nose and Slack ma Girdle for cider making! A visit to us to see our fruit tree varieties is highly recommended. Some of the varieties we have at the moment include:- Cox’s Orange Pippin Most people regard the Cox’s Orange Pippin as the best of all varieties of eating apples. It is aromatic, juicy and crisp, with a superb flavour. The fruit will be ready to pick in October. Bramley’s Seedling This is by far the most popular cooking apple. The Bramley’s Seedling produces a fantastic crop of large fruit, with a creamy flesh. This apple is juicy and full of flavour. Picking time is October. Victoria Plum The Victoria plum is probably still the most popular plum. It produces a good amount of fruit, which should be ready for picking from late August.

Our fruit trees have done very well again this year. They produced a mass of blossom in the spring, and are now showing a good crop of fruit. Fruit trees are a natural addition to any garden. Even if you have limited space, there are many varieties that will grow happily in a pot in a corner of your garden or on a patio. They’re also popular because they can add structure and interest to your garden, with the added benefit of the fruit come harvest time! We also particularly like fruit trees because they are so good for wildlife. Here at Arundel Arboretum, we’ve had another thriving year with our nesting birds and all our bird boxes have again had birds successfully rearing their young. The insect life that fruit trees encourage works in harmony with our bird life to keep insects and bugs under control in a totally natural way. We wouldn’t have it any other way and you’ll never see us spray any of our stock – fruit trees or otherwise. We have a wide range of fruit trees in stock. This includes apple (eating and cooking), pear, quince, fig, vines and medlar in a range of sizes, including some half standard apple and pear trees. A visit to our nursery is highly recommended so that you can see all that we have to offer. Some of the varieties we currently have include:- Quince – Vranja Vranja quince is one of the most popular varieties grown in the UK. It produces a large, pear shaped, yellow fruit. The tree has a spreading habit with moderate growth. Vranja is easy to grow in the southern UK or against a south facing wall, although it is a light cropper. The fruit produces an excellent flavour, ideal for making tasty jams, jellies and marmalades. The picking time for the fruit is in October. Mespilus germanica – Medlar Mespilus germanica is a small deciduous medlar tree with long leathery leaves. These turn golden yellow\brown in the autumn, with white flowers in the summer. Mespilus germanica fruits resemble small apples, which are hollow at one end. They’re best eaten when they’ve softened (bletted), preferably after a frost, and can be made into preserves and jellies. A popular fruit historically as a fruit that could be consumed during the winter months. Victoria Plum The Victoria Plum is probably the most popular plum, producing large fruits with a yellow-green flesh and pale red skin. It’s a reliable and heavy cropper, but thinning is often essential. Ideally, the fruits should be left on the tree until they are fully ripe – the taste will be delicious and suitable for eating and cooking! The Victoria has a poor resistance to disease and its period of use is late August.  It is self-fertile and comes under Pollination Group B. Apple – Greensleeves – dessert apple Greensleeves produces a medium size fruit and is similar to Golden Delicious. It is hardy and easy to manage. The skin is pale green that turns pale yellow. Greensleeves fruits early in life, and can produce heavy crops.  The flavour soon fades when stored. Picking time is September. Apple – Bramley’s Seedling – cooking apple Bramley’s Seedling is the most popular cooking apple. It produces heavy crops of large fruit with a creamy flesh that is full of flavour. It grows vigorously, so is best suited in a larger garden. Bramley’s Seedling is often a biennial cropper. The skin is yellow-green which is lightly striped with red. Picking time is mid-October. We probably have one of the largest ranges of fruit trees in the area. Our website is just a small fraction of the choice of fruit trees we have to offer. Our helpful staff will be very happy to assist you in the purchase of a fruit tree suitable for your garden.